Dom Perignon 2008 3 Liter Jeroboam

DKK 29500

Score: 95+ pts by Robert Parker

The 2008 Dom Pérignon continues to show very well, offering up a pretty bouquet of Anjou pear, fresh peach, citrus oil, fresh pastry, smoke and iodine. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, lively and incisive, with an elegantly textural attack and a creamy core of fruit that’s underpinned by a bright but nicely integrated spine of acidity. The finish is long, saline and well-defined. As I wrote earlier this year, this is the finest Dom Pérignon since 1996, Richard Geoffroy’s push for additional ripeness working well with the late-maturing, high-acid vintage. While it can be appreciated young, the 2008 will really start to blossom with five or six years of bottle age.” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, April 2020

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Beskrivelse

Dom Perignon 2008

History

The eagerly anticipated Dom Pérignon 2008 was at last released at the end of 2018, and happily, I had the chance to taste it with the charismatic outgoing Chef de Caves, Richard Geoffroy, at an event in Beaune. I subsequently retasted the wine several times at my office in the United States. As the release of this vintage marks Geoffroy’s retirement—effective January 1, 2019—after 28 years with Dom Pérignon, it also marks an important event in Dom Pérignon’s history, commemorated by a special label. It’s fair to say that Geoffroy’s tenure has transformed this cuvée, and what he has achieved is certainly impressive.

Since 2003, which few Champagne houses declared as a vintage and which Geoffroy made waves by opting to release, Dom Pérignon has been produced in every year with the sole exception of 2007, reflecting a decision to embrace the personality of each vintage more wholeheartedly. While cynics might observe that this decision has obvious commercial appeal, the wines have largely justified it—even if some vintages are obviously stronger than others. Geoffroy has also sought to pick riper fruit, harvesting late by the standards of the region in pursuit of more mature grapes. Especially for a cuvée of this size (production is confidential, but most estimates land north of five million bottles), that’s decidedly unusual, reflecting an admirable willingness to take risks in pursuit of quality.

Tasting notes

Dom Pérignon 2008 today delivers more flesh, vinosity and texture than it did two decades ago. To my palate, the wine would be even more exciting if those qualities, admirable in themselves, could be married with greater energy and incisiveness—and perhaps slightly lower dosage—but that’s likely an unreasonable counsel of perfection at this scale. Geoffroy’s successor, Vincent Chaperon, has worked with his predecessor for the last 13 years, and it will be exciting to follow Dom Pérignon’s evolution under his direction.

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